October 2021 – DEV – The Umbra Institute – Study Abroad in Italy

by Umbra Rep Timothy Ringie, University of Massachusetts Amherst

When I began planning out my study abroad experience over a year ago, the thing that captivated me the most was the idea of immersing myself in a new culture to which I was unaccustomed to. The thought of being surrounded by people speaking a different language, learning their customs and ways of life was something I knew I wanted to be a part of my study abroad experience. In just my first month here at the Umbra Institute I enjoyed such an immersive experience by participating in both the grape and olive harvests at a beautiful property located right in the heart of the Umbrian countryside. Owned and managed by Eileen and Lorenzo De Monaco, their operation, called “Agri Segretum”, produces local, handcrafted, and organic wine and olive oil. Eileen and Lorenzo pride themselves on their sustainability and commitment to creating natural organic products which taste as good as they sound. Their grapes are grown, harvested, crushed, fermented, aged, and bottled on-site, and all by hand as it has been done for centuries. The olives are also grown and hand-picked on site, and then brought to an olive mill where they are ground up and pressed into oil. In addition to their wine & olive oil production operations, Eileen and Lorenzo rent out two farmhouse buildings at their villa, called “La Segreta” which are nestled amongst the olive groves, vineyards, and directly adjacent to the Cantina where they produce the wine. I was lucky enough to have personal contact with them as Eileen is from the United States and a friend of my parents. In a previous visit to Italy I had the wonderful opportunity to stay at one of their quaint farmhouses, and now I’ve been able to begin my study abroad experience by partaking in their grape and olive harvests which have experiences far more enriching than I could have ever imagined.

Grape Harvest and

On just my fifth day after arriving in Perugia, I found myself right in the midst of an incredible and unforgettable immersive experience, the grape harvest. It began bright and early at 7:00 AM with a cappuccino and a bowl of cereal – an American twist in an otherwise completely Italian landscape. After breakfast, Lorenzo drove me a quick five minutes to where the majority of their grape vines are located. It was then that I was introduced to the team, or “la Squadra” in Italian. Even though my Italian is shaky at best, they invited me with open arms. They have a small dedicated staff who are employed at the vineyard full time, all locals of course. But I was in for a surprise when I realized that the majority of the people there were their friends and acquaintances from the surrounding towns. They are fathers, mothers, sons and daughters in their little town called Collazzone, who are recruited to help every harvest season. It felt like one big family and was so much fun to be a part of. I was paired with two women who helped me “learn the ropes”. I was proud of how I performed speaking Italian and enjoyed communicating with my new friends. It is amazing what is possible when thrust into a situation where you are forced to speak another language. During the grape harvest, we all walked down the rows of vines with hand pruners, individually cut each bunch of grapes from the vines and placed them in crates every ten to twenty feet. A tractor would drive through, with someone following behind, to pick up all the crates in the row. This tractor was the only mechanized part of the entire process, with everything else being done by hand. We took an espresso/lunch break around noon and just talked at a big picnic table at the edge of the vineyard. After picking for a few more hours, I went back to their cantina and helped put the grapes on a shaking table which lets any small debris fall through, while the larger material like leaves, sticks, and other undesirable material is picked out by hand. The grapes then fall into the crusher and then transferred directly into a steel vat where they will ferment for the next few weeks. The Sangiovese grapes which we picked are the staple grapes of central Italy. They will be used to make 4 different kinds of wine; 3 red and one rosé. Needless to say after this experience I was counting down the days until I could return again.

Olive Harvest

Just a few weeks after the grape harvest I was able to return to La Segreta to help with their olive harvest. All of their roughly 500 olive trees are nestled right on the property with a spectacular view of the surrounding Umbrian hills. Their olive oil production is significantly smaller than the wine production as it takes roughly 5 kilograms, or around 11 pounds, of olives just to produce 1 liter of extra-virgin olive oil. That didn’t make the work any less grueling or exhausting though as again, everything is done by hand.

We started at a similar time in the morning, around 7:30 AM, however it was noticeably colder this time as there was a heavy fog that morning. I was excited to see all the familiar faces of “la Squadra” that I had met a few weeks prior. This time there was no need for introduction and I rushed to practice some more Italian with the locals and I might add they were just as eager to practice their English!

The process for collecting the olives involves laying down large mesh tarps under an area of trees to collect the olives as they fall. A few workers were equipped with a long pole with motorized “fingers”, for lack of a better word, situated at the end which shook the branches of the tree causing the olives to fall down. The majority of us, however, used long rakes which comb over the branches, pulling off only the olives. My day consisted of traveling from area to area laying down the tarps, raking the trees clean of olives and loading them into crates to be picked up. We picked 3 classic types of Italian olives: Leccino, Moraiolo, and Frantoio; the blending of which creates the best extra-virgin olive oil I have tasted and certainly unlike anything I have ever tried. The color of which is a hazy-green and tastes as though it is filled with spices. By the time we finished working, I realized that I had learned a lot of the terminology that was used during the day, the Italian words for tarp, stake, box and rake to name a few. My evening concluded with two kinds of homemade cake that Eileen made and brought into the olive grove for all the workers. There we engaged in chit chat and watched the beautiful sunset below the Umbrian hills. I exchanged contact information with some of the workers with whom I plan to see again.

A new way of life

The experience at “La Segreta” has been really eye opening. Not just because of the specifics related to grape/olive harvests or even the Italian words, phrases and conversation that I have picked up on. But more profoundly, I have learned about and experienced a completely different way of life and culture. I’ve been exposed to a business operation where product quality – rather than profits or volume – is put at the forefront. I have taken part in a way of life where past traditions are blended with the present. And perhaps most importantly, I’ve experienced a way of life where community and family rise above all else. It truly felt like one large family out in the fields, with everyone joking and laughing, telling inside jokes after years of harvesting grapes and olives together. It was a wonderful experience, one which I will never forget.

If I could give any advice to anyone studying abroad, it would be to immerse yourself in the culture. You will learn new things. Of course, you will have the opportunity to learn the language but you will also meet new people, and discover a different way of life. Umbria was a perfect place for me to go, filled with wonderful people, great food, a storied history and more importantly not completely overrun with tourists. Studying abroad was the best decision I have ever made and I implore anyone who gets the opportunity to seize it.

Starting in September 2021, the Umbra Institute assumed management of the urban garden known as “Orto Sole” (pronounced “orto-soul-ay”) to develop it as a living laboratory for the Institute’s Food, Sustainability and Environment program.

Until recently, Orto Sole was a mostly forgotten steep agricultural plot on Perugia’s north facing hillside. Several years ago, a non-profit association was created to re-develop this area as an urban garden: its members rebuilt the garden’s terraces, pruned the grape vines and ageing fruit trees, and started hosting community groups in the beautiful green space just below the city’s most famous panorama – Porta Sole.

The Institute will use the green urban hillside as its “outdoor classroom”: continuing the garden’s use as a didactic space, exploring new agricultural technologies, and sponsoring community-engaged learning projects with local partners. In development now are collaborations with nearby elementary and middle schools, a local non-profit organization that distributes food to those in need, and the Department of Agricultural, Food and Environmental Sciences of the prestigious University of Perugia.

Opportunities for Teaching & Learning

The location and position of Orto Sole provides both advantages and challenges. The advantages are its central location: the garden is located in the historic center, just short walk from Perugia’s main piazza (where the Umbra Institute is located). The challenges are its orientation and topography. It is a relatively steep hillside which will require significant terracing to cultivate, and it faces north and is therefore often in the shade. However, it is precisely these challenges that make Orto Sole an ideal project for landscape and agriculture students from the University of Perugia, and Umbra students in the FSE program to work together on the sustainable development of this unique urban garden.

To learn more about Umbra’s projects about Orto Sole, click here

By Lexi DeMarinis, University of Richmond

When you first arrive in Perugia, Italy for your semester abroad you will most likely spend the first week trying every pizzeria, pasta dish, and torta al testo in town. Then, you will realize it would be nice (and cheaper) to cook some fresh food in your apartment that reminds you of home. At this point you will head to the grocery store, most likely the Coop. Here you will find yourself completely overwhelmed by the amount of items packed into the small store, the number of people you bump into, and how different it is from going to the grocery store in the United States. I am here to tell you that grocery shopping in Italy does not need to be difficult, and there are more options for buying food than the Coop.

General Tips

Put a glove on (found with the bags for produce) before touching any produce
After you choose produce put your bag on the scale and select the item on the screen
Place the printed sticker on the produce bag BEFORE you check out

The Coop

The Coop is a great one stop shop grocery store. They have fresh produce, yogurt, milk, fish, and meat, but they also have snacks, crackers, cereal, frozen items and PEANUT BUTTER. While the frozen section is not huge there are some good finds such as frozen soup, fruit, pizzas, seafood, vegetables, and more. My personal favorite is the frozen pumpkin soup, you just heat it up in a pot for a few minutes and enjoy!

Fresh Vegetables @Via dei Priori, 20

The Coop is great, but if you are looking for guaranteed fresh produce directly from the farm this is the place to go. The owner is very kind, and he speaks great English. You point to what you want, he picks it out and bags it for you. He also gives you the best one of whatever you ask for. For example, if you want a bell pepper, he won’t give one that is about to go bad, but instead rummage through the bin to find you the best one. He has a few extra items in the shop as well such as crackers, canned beans, olive oil, and jams. Sometimes he has fresh cut up veggies that you can buy bags of to make minestrone soup. If you don’t see what you want, just ask and it’s probably in the back.

Fresh Pasta @Via Cesare Caporali, 3

This very small shop does not even have a name and there is only room to stand and order at the counter from one man who owns, runs, and makes the pasta. I highly recommend going here for a fresh, local experience that you will not get in the United States. The man speaks English, but he will help you through your Italian and urge you to practice. He makes fresh gnocchi, ravioli, and other types of pasta daily. It is also a great place to go if you only want one portion of pasta because you buy it by weight.

Butcher: Pierini, Via Dei Priori, 15

Again, you can find meat at the Coop, but when in Italy going to the butcher and getting your meat from the shop that specializes specifically in meat is a must have experience. The one on Via a Priori is conveniently located right across from the fresh produce shop. I highly recommend the sausages, they are full of flavor and really cheap, less than 1 euro per sausage. I recently used them to make sausage and peppers!

Pam: Dairy Free, Gluten Free, and Vegetarian Options (Open Sunday)

Pam is a great place for dairy free, gluten free, vegetarian, pre-packaged and frozen meals, and some American snacks. They have a small fresh section (much smaller than the Coop) but I mainly recommend Pam for the alternative products I mentioned above. They have dairy free yogurt and almond milk. They are also open all day on Sunday so when you come back from your weekend travel and realize you have nothing to eat it is a great place to grab a few Sunday essentials.

Alimentari’s

These are stores typically run by one to two people and they often sell products from other cuisines. Here you can find Asian spices, noodles, and sauces as well as American snacks and Halal products. They also often have frozen fish and a small selection of fresh produce. These are also typically open on Sunday for some amount of time.

Check Lexi’s Instagram highlights about groceries in Perugia on Umbra Instagram page!

by Umbra Rep Lauren Pawlowski, University of Connecticut

Part of adjusting to life in a new country while studying abroad is figuring out ways to make this place feel like home. Exploring the city and surrounding areas is exciting, but it’s good to balance taking trips and doing casual things around Perugia. I have lived in Connecticut for my whole life, so it is a little overwhelming trying to fit in with the Italian culture. Although this feeling may be common amongst the American students here, there are many ways to manage stress and feel more at ease with life abroad. Taking advantage of your free time is one the best ways to do so! So although watching Netflix may be tempting, here are 10 different ways to enjoy your spare time:

1. Looking for inspiration or something new to look at? Visit the art gallery or historical exhibits in the city fortress, la Rocca Paolina. Or you can take a stroll down Via Cartolari and Via della Viola to see outdoor murals and public art.

2. Feels like you’re eating too many carbs? Here are the local workout options: get a gym membership, visit Metropolitan Boulder (a rock climbing center where Umbra students get a discount), or run around the city or at the local track. If you’re looking for fewer hills, visit the parks around the city. One of them is Percorso Verde in Pian di Massiano (get there by Minimetro), where you can walk, run, play ping-pong, or just relax.

3. Start a new hobby: journaling, drawing, painting, playing the ukulele, reading books, writing poetry, etc. There are art supplies available at the Flying Tiger Copenhagen store and Novart Deco, both located in the city center. You can also buy books around town (look for “Libreria”). Journaling or making art about your experience can help you remember all the aspects of your study abroad adventure. Also, if you brought a nice camera then Perugia has many beautiful views to photograph!

4. Cook a new recipe or try new foods. You can search recipes online, ask a staff member, or talk with a local about new dishes to try. Enjoy a meal with your roommates or invite a friend over.

5. Watch a movie at the cinemas around the city. There are English movie nights on Wednesdays at PostModernissimo or other theaters. Ask the Umbra staff for advice on where to go.

6. Experience the best of Perugia: walk around, explore, or sit on the steps and chat with the locals.

7. Go to the mall (Centro Commerciale Collestrada) via a 35-minute bus ride. There you can find H&M, Zara, IKEA, and other popular stores. Or you can peruse the shops around the city center for some quick finds. There are a few thrift stores in Perugia, but you’ll have to take a bus or use the Minimetro to get to them.

8. Enjoy a coffee, sandwich, or aperetivo with a friend or with someone new. It helps to have a chat over food or a casual drink.

9. Visit the outdoor markets around the city for fresh farm produce, fish, truffles, clothing, and handmade goods.

10. Call a friend or family member back home to tell them about your experiences, get advice, or hear about life back in the States.

Check the Activities and Map sections of the Umbra App for more ideas and trips happening in the area!

Last weekend, students in Umbra’s program for Food, Sustainability, & Environment (FSE) went to Parma and Modena for what is one of the most significant field trips of their study abroad experience.

Accompanied by the three co-instructors of the FSE core course—Umbra’s director, Prof. Zachary Nowak, Professor Clelia Viecelli, and FSE assistant Manuel Barbato—students visited a region considered the cradle of Italian gastronomic culture, Emilia Romagna. This area is home of three worldwide known culinary gems: Parmesan cheese, Parma ham, and Modena balsamic vinegar.

The first stop was the Salumificio ‘La Perla’, located in the beautiful hills above Parma. Students met Carlo Lanfranchi, who was their guide through the small, family-run factory where over ten thousand fresh Italian hams are turned into delicious prosciutto each year. Students saw the various stages of salting and Carlo explained the special final quality test, which requires a small horse-bone probe to check for defects. The group then went upstairs for a hearty lunch of tortellini and (of course) prosciutto.

After the evening and night in Parma, students left Saturday morning for the Consorzio Produttori Latte Parma, where twelve local dairy farmers have created a small cooperative to process the milk from their cows into the famous cheese. Students were able to see the process of cheese-making from the beginning (as the workers pulled the curds out of the huge copper kettles with thick cheesecloths) to the salting, and even went in the huge warehouse where finished wheels of cheese weighing over 150 pounds each were stacked on shelves that went to the ceiling.

The last stop on the trip was in Modena, a small city known for being home of luxury cars (Ferrari and Lamborghini factories) and…balsamic vinegar. Students visited Acetaia San Donnino, a family-run business where students were able to see the six different sets of wooden barrels (each made of a different wood) that balsamic vinegar must pass through on its twelve year-long journey to becoming Modena’s most famous culinary product. A real hit: tasting the thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar on vanilla ice cream!

In addition to visiting some of the Italian food excellencies, and tasting authentic products, students had the opportunity to have hands-on experience on many aspects related to food production and consumption. They learned the importance of the geographical indications that aim to protect the names of specific products and their unique characteristics, linked to their geographical origin as well as traditional know-how. They learned how crucial is the use of high-quality raw material (and the daily quality controls) in such traditional products. They learned the indissoluble link between parmigiano, prosciutto and vinegar and the people and history of Parma and Modena. But, at the same time, students realized how important is the interplay between innovation and tradition.

During the upcoming weeks, students will have the opportunity to visit and learn more about the interconnection between food, sustainability, and environment thanks to workshops and on-site visits in that landscape of culinary wonders, called Umbria.