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Last February, the Umbra Institute signed an agreement with Fuori di Zucca, (whose literal translation in English is “Out of Pumpkin” but whose meaning in Italian is “crazy”), a volunteering association that manages a Solidarity Purchasing Group. Their aim is creating a small community that would buy fresh food (i.e., vegetables, fruit, cheese, etc.) in a conscious and alternative way.The purchase of local produces takes place according to the principle of solidarity, which leads them to prefer small and local producers, respectful of the environment and people, with whom they have established a direct and stable relationship.

Thanks to the agreement, Umbra students can take part to the activities of this association and immerse themselves in a lively community of local food producers and consumers. Spring semester students have seized this opportunity and are volunteering in the weekly shopping and food distribution which is held every Wednesday. Students became active members of the Association, and they were provided with a membership card, with which they can buy local food.

In addition to sustaining local farmers, Fuori di Zucca has also launched an initiative through which the complete weekly shopping (vegetables, eggs, bread, pasta, cheeses, legumes) is guaranteed to five families in need of support residing in the neighborhood where Fuori di Zucca meets. This initiative is supported by the members of the association (with small donations), from producers (who charge half price for the products of the shopping for these families), and from others fundraising activities.

The Umbra Institute is happy to be part of this meaningful project and is looking forward to strengthen its ties with Fuori di Zucca “Crazy” association!

 

As we’re nearly halfway through our Spring 2022 semester, one of our team members took a moment to both reminisce and reflect on some of their favorite things about a spring semester in Perugia.


As the spring semester begins, Perugia feels as though it has just woken up from a long nap. You see, between semesters, Italians enjoy feast after feast with friends and family as they celebrate the winter holidays. You may think that these indulgences end with the New Year’s Eve fireworks that you can see across the valley from various hilltop views across Perugia. However, the merriment continues until January 6th. Naturally, after weeks of eating just a little too much, the city lulls into a drizzly naptime.

spring semester Italy
Perugia, a city in the clouds.

Italian students study for their final exams to conclude their fall semester while international students arrive at the Umbra Institute and begin to stretch their legs, peaking down sideroads as they discover their new home. In the winter months, mornings start with a blanket of fog that wraps around the city, filling the valley below. Wandering down side streets or to the end of Corso Vannucci, one can glimpse that 40 degree (Fahrenheit!) blanket of white and feel like they’re living in a magical city in the clouds.
Some restaurants close for a couple of weeks in January to relax after a busy winter season but that doesn’t mean that the city doesn’t smell like Italy. As you take a walk down Via dei Priori or up Corso Garibaldi at lunchtime, you’ll smell all sorts of delectable dishes. It’s fun to take that walk with a local as they can often identify each dish by its smell. Fish or meat? Tomato sauce or cream? Soup or pasta? I’d argue that the best smells are on Sundays: polpette or a big pot of ragu!

study abroad italy
Wander down the side streets

As the weather warms, the skies clear and the sunsets become a spectacle. The city comes to life with people taking their early evening passeggiata so that they can sit at the benches of the Giardini Carducci in awe of the violent shades of red, orange, and pink that explode across the sky. A panorama of light that can be embraced but not captured. Turn left toward the view of San Domenico church and to the left of its tower you’ll see Assisi turn pink and purple as it reflects sunbeams slowly disappearing behind the hills.

spring semester sunset in perugia italy
The hills turning purple behind San Domenico tower as the sun sets on Perugia

Though the sun has gone to rest, Perugia does not. Streets fill with Perugini in search of fresh air and friends along the main thoroughfare. Stopping to rest on the steps of Piazza IV Novembre, also known as Perugia’s beach, is a great way to take in all the life that Italians bring to their evening walks! Don’t be surprised if midnight creeps close and small children are still toddling about, using the day’s last spurt of energy. The fountain becomes a meeting place and sometimes you’ll hear the swoon of violins echoing off the Duomo when the doors to Palazzo dei Priori open for a well-dressed music aficionado to wander down the steps and take in a cigarette.

palazzo dei priori Perugia
Palazzo dei Priori – a historic building that now hosts concerts, weddings, and a national gallery.

As Easter approaches, you’ll begin to see why Perugia has a reputation as the city of chocolate, home to the Perugina chocolate factory. Decades ago, its founder, Luisa Spagnoli (a woman with a love for innovation and a heart for social impact), created Italy’s famous chocolate Easter egg. A massive egg as big as one’s head that is hollow and hides a surprise! These are often fun games for kids to find when they break their egg but you can find various shops around the city that will let you put your own special gift inside! In some shops, the eggs are so elaborately decorated that it almost hurts to break their delicate shell!

Italian Easter Eggs
Italy’s famous chocolate Easter egg

Early in April, the city booms to life, becoming a hub for journalism professionals who flock to Perugia for the International Journalism Festival. Free events take place throughout the city and are offered in English to appeal to the international audience. Writers and investigative journalists from the BBC, Al Jazeera, NPR, La Lista, Corriere della Sera, and more fill Perugia’s pizzerias. If you study communication, journalism, or political science, Perugia is THE place to be during this festival! Ask a good question during a panel, and at the end, you might get a yes when you offer to show the panelists your favorite hidden restaurant in the city in exchange for an informal informational interview.

Italian flower festival
The Infiorata is a stunning flower festival in May, found in nearby Spello

As the semester concludes, you catch a glimpse of what’s to come over the summer. The sun beats down and you shed your winter layers. You hear about May’s flower festivals, June’s medieval 1416 festival, and July’s Umbria Jazz and you start to consider whether or not one semester was long enough…

By Umbra Rep Lauren Pawlowski, University of Connecticut

The Food, Sustainability & Environment Program (FSE) made my semester abroad in Italy unforgettable! Participating in immersive learning experiences, such as culinary workshops and tours of food production facilities, allowed me to learn more about Italian food and culture outside of the classroom. This included workshops on cheese making, coffee roasting, and a series of cooking demonstrations. We also had the opportunity to go truffle hunting and visit multiple butcheries, just to name a few more experiences. The FSE made me reflect on food systems, local traditions, and environmental sustainability in a way that I never would have the opportunity to do in the United States. I will continue to think of these lessons and utilize the perspectives I’ve gained throughout my career in sustainability. 

One of my best weekends abroad was when the FSE visited Parma and Modena to tour the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Modena Balsamic Vinegar, and Prosciutto di Parma production facilities. Having local food producers walk us through the process of creating these traditional products was an incredible experience, one that I probably would not have gotten if I had studied abroad in a different country. For example, the appellation and DOP/DOCG region system is something that sets Italy apart from the US and other countries for food and wine production. Certifying products from these areas ensures top quality and preserves Italian food culture, but being limited to the specific region boundaries makes it harder for producers and farmers to adapt to changing climate conditions. For example, within the last few decades, the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese producers have had to use air conditioning in their facilities to maintain the correct cheese temperature and they changed the cow breed they use to make the milk. The cheese-making facility also has stainless steel machinery and copper cauldrons for a sanitary production process. This is where the blend of traditional artisanal production techniques and modern technology is critical to maintaining sustainability, of both the business and the local cuisine. And it was a unique experience for me to explore these sustainable examples of food production that exemplify a middle ground between small family farms and massive industrial facilities. This is something that is hard to imagine and get the opportunity to see in the United States. 

Talking first-hand with locals who are proud of where they live and how they produce their food using artisanal techniques was inspiring. There is an appreciation for food production here that is difficult to find in the US, where concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) and fast food places reign supreme. The appreciation for food culture in Italy is exemplified by the abundance of agriturismo locations throughout the country, where hospitality and food production combine to create an educational experience for visitors and tourists. This promotes environmental sustainability, because of the transparency in operations, support for local food systems, and utilization of organic or regenerative farming practices. These are also important values of the Slow Food movement, which originated in Italy. Throughout my travels and FSSP experiences, I had the chance to eat at many Slow Food restaurants, where the managers create strong relationships with every food producer they source ingredients from and they serve only a seasonal food menu. The Slow Food movement is not popular in the US, along with agriturismo locations, so these were very rewarding to see in Italy. Overall, the FSE opened my eyes to the world of Italian cuisine and made me appreciate the local food producers across different regions of the country. This was exactly the type of global experience that I was looking forward to when I applied to study abroad, and there is no better place to learn about food than in the heart of Italy. 

Not only did we participate in facility and farm tours and educational presentations, but we also got to sample the delicious dishes at each of the trip locations! Some of the best meals I’ve had in Italy and in my lifetime have been on the FSE field trips, including gnocchi with truffle oil during the truffle hunting field trip and 25-year aged balsamic vinegar on vanilla gelato in Modena.

It was rewarding to be a part of the group of FSE students who were eager to learn along with me and to try the best of what Italy had to offer. I am forever grateful for these special memories and for the families and locals who shared their knowledge, culture, and traditions with us! 

For more information about the FSE Program, click here .

 

The Spring ’22 semester begins this weekend with the arrival of students in Perugia. After a 2-day orientation, in-person classes will begin on Monday, February 7th. The Umbra staff could not be more pleased to see students back in the classroom and having the opportunity to experience student life in Perugia and explore Italy and beyond.

“We have managed to balance practicing responsible protocols in response to COVID, without compromising the immersive study abroad experience that attracts students to Perugia”, said Program Coordinator, Jacopo Bernardini.  “We are excited about the spring semester, especially as we enter the spring months. Umbra has a wonderful diversity of courses and a wide variety of co- and extracurricular activities planned. We wish all students a safe and unforgettable study abroad experience”.

As always, the students’ well-being is foremost among our priorities, and the Institute will follow all the required health and safety required by the local health officials. 

The Umbra Institute’s didactic garden, Orto Sole, will be an outdoor laboratory for a new collaboration between the University of Perugia’s Department of Agricultural, Food and Environmental Sciences (UniPG).

Headed by Professor David Grohmann, the UniPG Green Teams consists of students dedicated to the development and maintenance of urban green spaces, as well as research in conservation and sustainable development. 

Professors and students from Umbra and the UniPG will collaborate on new environmental initiatives using Orto Sole as a didactic garden for research and development, joint internships for students of food, environment and sustainability studies, and academic courses and research projects recognized by both institutions for university credit. Additionally, local university students and Umbra students now have an opportunity to study and work together to help Perugia confront the agricultural and environmental challenges of the future.

To learn more about Umbra’s Food, Sustainability and Environment program, click here.

By Lauren Lewis (she/her/hers) – Umbra Rep Spring ’20 and UConn student

I was three days away from my abroad adventure in Perugia, Italy. I had already fully packed three suitcases and my carry-on and was anxiously counting down the seconds until I could hop on the plane and start my life-changing spring semester abroad. My sister had then come into my room and stared at all my bags. “Unpack everything, we need to start over,” is what she said, and that’s exactly what I did.

I consider myself lucky that I had a sister who had studied abroad the year before I was going to, as she was able to give me insight on what I would need when living out of suitcases for four months. However, realizing that many people may not have siblings who have studied abroad, and most people have not had the unique experience of living out of a suitcase for four months, I decided to provide all the tricks and tips on how to successfully pack for your spring semester abroad.

The first and more important rule for packing is: Do not overpack! You do not need your entire wardrobe when traveling abroad- in fact, you don’t even need half of your wardrobe. Here are two questions to ask yourself when trying to figure out if you have over packed or not.

  1. Can I carry my bags? If you have too many bags, to the point where you will need someone else’s help carrying them, chances are you have over packed. When you get off the plane, you will need to be able to carry your luggage with you to meet the Umbra staff. In addition to this, you will also have to carry them around the cobblestone streets of Perugia when finding your apartment. Therefore, it is important to be able to carry your luggage. When I studied abroad I brought a large suitcase, a smaller suitcase, and a carry-on. I had more than enough room for all of my belongings and was able to carry my luggage wherever I went. If you are someone who has yet to purchase your suitcases for your study abroad experience, I recommend getting a suitcase set that has rotating wheels and comes with a smaller carry-on bag. The rotating wheels make it easy to move, and the carry-on bag can be used to travel on the weekends.
  2. Do I have room in my suitcase? You will end up buying things when you are in Italy, whether they be souvenirs for your family members or loved ones, or if you are like me- more clothes. Therefore, you must have ample room in your suitcases to bring back things from your study abroad experience.

When packing for your study abroad experience, there are four important items that you should make sure you have packed.

1. Prescription Medicine: It is vital to bring all medications that you will need with you for the duration of your time abroad. Italy may not have the same type of prescription and therefore, if you do not bring it with you, you may not have it for the entirety of your trip.

2. Hygiene Products: I went to Italy, only knowing two to three words in Italian. If you are like me, the language barrier will make it hard to know what products are good for you. Therefore, I recommend bringing your own. It is also important to note that personal hygene items in Italy may be slightly different than what we are accostumed to or, when they are the same, may come under different brand names and packaging. You may have to visit more than one store in Perugia before you find an exact match for your favorite products. Therefore, it is best to stay safe and bring a starter pack of whatever you are comfortable using and don’t want to find yourself missing.

3. An adaptor: All of Europe has different adaptors than we do here in the United States. Therefore, it is best to just pack one before you leave that you can use if you have a layover.

4. Euro: I recommend taking at least 200 to 300 Euros with you at the beginning of your trip because some food places and shops will not take credit cards. If you decide not to bring Euro, DO NOT buy it at the airport. The fees are jacked up and sometimes you may even get counterfeit bills. Therefore, wait until you get into Perugia before you take money out. Despite the Euro, be sure to plan ahead of time how you will access money. Check your bank to see if they have a credit card to use in foreign countries and have multiple ways to access money.

Now it is time to share what most people probably came to this article; to figure out what types of clothing to bring with you for your four-month abroad experience in Italy. Before giving you my recommendations on what types of clothes you should bring, I think it is important to note some important aspects of packing. First off, do not pack outfits. You will be in Italy between 110-120 days unless you decide to stay longer. Your suitcase will not be able to fit 122 different outfits. Therefore, I recommend bringing clothing items that can be interchanged with one another. In addition to this, remember that you are going to Italy, which is one of the biggest fashion capitals in the world. So, don’t be afraid to take a break from your sweatpants and try new clothes that you may have been too scared to wear here in the United States. I encourage you to take advantage of your creativity and to get out of your comfort zone with your fashion pieces!

  1. Warm Coat. A common misconception that people have when going to Italy is that it is warm all year round. Although it does not generally snow in Perugia and is warmer than a lot of places in the United States, it is still cold. Therefore, you should bring a warm coat. I brought a Peacoat, which worked on most days. However, there are a lot of alleyways in Perugia specifically, which serve as wind tunnels. Therefore, I would recommend bringing a puffy coat, or a thicker coat if at all possible.
  2. Undergarments. Be sure to pack at least two weeks of different undergarments to wear. This will provide you with the flexibility to choose how often you want to do laundry.
  3. Pants. I would pack a variety of different kinds of pants that you could wear while abroad including jeans, sweatpants, leggings, and shorts. Ultimately, I would try to pack between 7-9 pairs of pants as this will provide you with some variety, and provide you to dress with the seasons. It is important to note that I did not see many Italian women wearing shorts. However, as I said before going abroad is the perfect opportunity to express yourself in a different way than you have before, so if you are going to wear them, wear them with confidence.
  4. Sweaters. I will reiterate: it will be cold during your first two months abroad. I would plan to bring at least five to seven different kinds of sweaters. I promise you that you will use them!
  5. Shirts. I would bring a variety of long sleeve shirts, short sleeve shirts, and tank tops. I brought between 12-20 different pairs, as some of my tank tops took up virtually no space in my suitcase. Bringing a variety of treats provides you with the ability to mix and match outfits!
  6. Light Jacket. It will eventually start to warm up. However, there will be a moment where it is too hot to wear a thick coat but too cold to not wear a coat at all. Therefore, I would recommend bringing a light jacket that you can use when you travel and also if you are going to go out at night.
  7. Dresses and Skirts. I do not wear dresses as often which is why I only brought between 1-4 pairs. However, they are useful when going out to a fancy dinner with friends, and even to wear on a day to day basis. Depending on who you are feel free to bring more dresses and skirts in exchange for pants!
  8. Shoes. You should also plan on packing three to four pairs of shoes. I recommend bringing a walking shoe or sneaker, a pair of boots, and a pair of flip flops. If you like to work out I would recommend also bringing a pair of running shoes. I would not recommend bringing a pair of heels, as the streets of Perugia are cobblestone and you will have a hard time walking. Just remember, you will be walking a lot more in Italy than you do in America. Therefore, it is important to make sure all of the shoes you are bringing are comfortable!
  9. Pajamas. I included this for the people who are like me and may forget the most basic items to bring when traveling. Be sure to bring warm pajamas for the winter and lighter pajamas for when it gets warmer.

Now that I have gotten through the main clothing items you will need to last your time abroad, I thought I should mention some miscellaneous items that you should think about before starting your journey. If there are any little snacks that you love, I highly recommend looking up to see if Italy will have them. As mentioned before, Italian shops do not carry the same products that we have in the United States. Henceforth, if you can’t survive without a certain food or condiment, I would pack it in your bag. Another item I recommend looking into microfiber travel towels to bring with you. I packed them in my carry on and I was able to use them in the airports and bring them with me when I traveled. The last item that you should think about bringing is a rain jacket or an umbrella. Although it most likely will not snow while you are in Perugia, it will rain. As my mom always says, “It’s better to be overprepared than underprepared!”

But the most important items are…

By this point I have mentioned almost every tangible item you will need to bring with you for your semester abroad. However, I have not mentioned some of the most important things you will need as you embark on your overseas adventure. Be sure to bring an open mind, as you are in a new country and some of their customs and ideologies are different than the ones we see here in the United States. Make sure to also bring patience. Oftentimes when traveling things do not go as planned. Remain calm in these situations because most often everything will work out. Be sure to bring your resilience. Sometimes people get homesick while abroad. In those moments take time to call your family members, friends, and always make sure to make your mental health a priority. Lastly, bring your spirit of adventure. You will have one of the best times of your life while traveling abroad. You will meet new people, learn a new language, and be exposed to a completely new lifestyle. Be sure to take it all in and make every moment count!

Umbra Institute note for Spring 22 students: for an extensive list of items to bring for your Spring Semester in Perugia, please make sure to read your pre-departure handbook.

As part of its Fall 2021 re-opening, The Umbra Institute has renewed its historic agreements with both local Italian universities in Perugia. Founded in 1999, the Institute has hosted American students in Perugia for over two decades. In 2006, then-director Dr. Charles Jarvis signed an agreement with the president of the University of Perugia (UniPG). The agreement created a framework whereby Umbra students could take courses at the Italian university alongside their Italian and other international student peers. UniPG could also take classes at The Umbra Institute: the first semester after the agreement saw the participation of eleven Italian university students in Umbra classrooms. Within two years, the other local Italian university also became an institutional partner: the University for Foreigners, which despite the name also has Italian students enrolled in its marketing and international relations tracks, also inked an agreement with Umbra. 

These agreements were renewed this Fall with the goal of expanding access to classrooms and promoting closer collaboration of Institute professors with their counterparts at the Italian universities. As part of the agreement, Umbra students in the program for Food, Sustainability, and the Environment will work with Agricultural Sciences on the development of Orto Sole, Umbra’s new urban community garden. The Institute expects over twenty Italian students to join the over one hundred American students studying in Perugia in the Spring of 2022.

By Umbra Rep Lexi De Marinis, University of Richmond

Looking for a quick lunch between classes, or maybe a spot for a nicer local dinner? Here are my favorite places to eat in Perugia for every occasion.

 

Sandwich: Piada e Delizie

Address: Piazza Francesco Morlacchi, 5

This sandwich place is right around the corner from school, and they make quality and inexpensive (4-5 euro) torta al testo, a typical Perugian focaccia cooked on a cast iron plate. You can either make your own sandwich or choose from the extensive list of combos they have on their menu. They make the sandwich right in front of you and include an olive oil drizzle and sea salt on the torta al testo. I like to make my own with Prosciutto, Arugula, Burrata, and Tomatoes.

Pizza: Pizzeria Mediterranea 

Address: Piazza Piccinino, 11

Pizzeria Mediterranea is close to school and my personal favorite pizza in Perugia. Each pizza is 4-7 euro so it’s also a great deal! I recommend La Pizza Lasagna. It is a delicious and unique pizza topped tomato sauce, mozzarella, spicy meat, and Ricotta. The Pizza Margherita with Bufala is also amazing!

Charcuterie: La Prosciutteria 

Address: Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 44

La Prosciutteria is a unique place in Perugia with GIANT charcuterie boards. I particularly like this place because you tell them how many people you have and if you want a small, large, or gourmet board and they put together a board with cheese, meat, fruit, veggies, toasts, and more. They also have options for sandwiches and salads. The atmosphere is lively, and it is a good price. A small board is 5 euro per person, a large 10, and a gourmet 15. The large board comes with plenty of food for a whole meal.

 

Traditional Osteria: Osteria a Priori 

Address: Via dei Priori, 39 

Osteria a Priori is the place to go for a nicer, traditional meal. Everything I have eaten there has been delicious and given the quality, the prices are decent. They have seasonal menus that rotate often with whatever is locally available at the time. A few of their dishes are: roasted vegetables with goat cheese (8 euro), lentil soup (8 euro), pumpkin ravioli (9 euro), and a traditional beef dish with vegetables (13 euro). This is a must go place during your time in Perugia!

 

Non-Italian: Lezioni Di Greco Corner

Address: Piazza Francesco Morlacchi, 11

This is a great Greek place right around the corner from school. You can make your own pita choosing your protein, toppings, and sauce. My personal favorite is the pumpkin (zucca) keftedes in a pita with hummus, tzatziki, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, and feta. This whole meal only costs 4.50 euro! I love to go here when I need a break from pizza, pasta, and cooking at home.

 

Gelato: Mastro Cianuri 

Address: Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 17

At first glance you would not even know that Mastro Cianuri has gelato, but it is the best in Perugia. My personal favorite is their chocolate gelato. A small cone with two toppings is 2 euro, a large 3. They also have small chocolates, coffee, pastries, and a caffe menu.

 

Written by Umbra Rep Noah Singer, University of Vermont

Coming to study abroad in Perugia, one of my goals was to find a charming café where I could read, write, do homework, or simply relax and people-watch.  As you could assume, there are an immense amount of cafés in Italy… an overwhelming amount.  Though I have not found one that is unsatisfactory, I felt it necessary to guide others to some of the cafés that have stood out to me.

 

Antica Latteria

A gem hidden in plain sight, Antica Latteria is a place you must try if you are in Perugia.  Founded back in 1925, this fantastic bar is a good place to check out because they make fresh panna (fresh whipped cream) for pastries and coffee.  This panna is exquisite; it is so tempting and delectable that it is dangerous!  Pictured above is a “caffè con panna” (espresso with whipped cream), I highly recommend trying this.  They have a plethora of pastries such as cannolis, brioche with panna, and a variety of sweets without this delicious, whipped cream.  Antica Latteria is located just down the street from Piazza IV Novembre, just to the right of the Pam, making it just a short walk from the Umbra Institute.

 

Caffè del Banco

Caffè del Banco is the perfect place to go in between classes if you need a caffeinated beverage, a snack, sandwich, or the need to satisfy a sweet tooth!  It is located about 300 feet away from the Umbra Institute making it a great place to get something quick.  Because it is located just outside Piazza IV Novembre, it is also an ideal location to get a drink and people watch!  The barista inside Caffè del Banco is always very sweet, and she will remember your face after a few visits.  Oftentimes you will see Umbra professors and staff going for a snack or coffee throughout the day!

 

Caffè Dal Perugino

Caffè Dal Perugino is a terrific little bar just outside of Piazza IV Novembre, and across from the Coop.  It is a wonderful place to go if you want a coffee and a panini because it is very cost efficient, and they have high quality products.  The baristas here are very kind, always greeting you with a smile, and offering you water (the only other place that has offered me water is Verace).  They even have various types of mints and gum at the register, which can help if you are trying to avoid coffee breath!  Caffè Dal Perugino is a cute cafè that you must checkout!

 

Verace

Verace is my favorite cafè and is just a short walk down from Piazza IV Novembre.  The owner of this spectacular establishment also owns a restaurant (that is also called Verace) right next to it.  This restaurant is fantastic and makes delicious pizza for a reasonable price.  They have pizza for sale in the cafè as well, making Verace the perfect place for a cheap, heavenly lunch.  Verace has exceptional coffee, friendly baristas that always welcome a chat (they have even taught me some Italian), and they always offer a free glass of water, which is a rarity in Perugia.  Personally, I love to go to Verace with a book in the afternoon for a coffee, and to enjoy the quietness in their outdoor seating area.  I simply cannot speak highly enough about Verace!

 

All these bars are wonderful places with a great aesthetic and quality products.  They are all within a 5-minute walk of Piazza IV Novembre, which is great because they are right in the city center.  On the contrary, if you are at the institute and do not have time to leave the building, or you are looking for the cheapest option, there are coffee vending machines within the building.  Though I was skeptical at first, I have learned that these vending machines make delicious cappuccinos for just 70 cents, an espresso shot for 60 cents, and many other cost-efficient options. 

by Umbra Rep Timothy Ringie, University of Massachusetts Amherst

When I began planning out my study abroad experience over a year ago, the thing that captivated me the most was the idea of immersing myself in a new culture to which I was unaccustomed to. The thought of being surrounded by people speaking a different language, learning their customs and ways of life was something I knew I wanted to be a part of my study abroad experience. In just my first month here at the Umbra Institute I enjoyed such an immersive experience by participating in both the grape and olive harvests at a beautiful property located right in the heart of the Umbrian countryside. Owned and managed by Eileen and Lorenzo De Monaco, their operation, called “Agri Segretum”, produces local, handcrafted, and organic wine and olive oil. Eileen and Lorenzo pride themselves on their sustainability and commitment to creating natural organic products which taste as good as they sound. Their grapes are grown, harvested, crushed, fermented, aged, and bottled on-site, and all by hand as it has been done for centuries. The olives are also grown and hand-picked on site, and then brought to an olive mill where they are ground up and pressed into oil. In addition to their wine & olive oil production operations, Eileen and Lorenzo rent out two farmhouse buildings at their villa, called “La Segreta” which are nestled amongst the olive groves, vineyards, and directly adjacent to the Cantina where they produce the wine. I was lucky enough to have personal contact with them as Eileen is from the United States and a friend of my parents. In a previous visit to Italy I had the wonderful opportunity to stay at one of their quaint farmhouses, and now I’ve been able to begin my study abroad experience by partaking in their grape and olive harvests which have experiences far more enriching than I could have ever imagined. 

Grape Harvest and 

On just my fifth day after arriving in Perugia, I found myself right in the midst of an incredible and unforgettable immersive experience, the grape harvest. It began bright and early at 7:00 AM with a cappuccino and a bowl of cereal – an American twist in an otherwise completely Italian landscape. After breakfast, Lorenzo drove me a quick five minutes to where the majority of their grape vines are located. It was then that I was introduced to the team, or “la Squadra” in Italian. Even though my Italian is shaky at best, they invited me with open arms. They have a small dedicated staff who are employed at the vineyard full time, all locals of course. But I was in for a surprise when I realized that the majority of the people there were their friends and acquaintances from the surrounding towns. They are fathers, mothers, sons and daughters in their little town called Collazzone, who are recruited to help every harvest season. It felt like one big family and was so much fun to be a part of. I was paired with two women who  helped me “learn the ropes”. I was proud of how I performed speaking Italian and enjoyed communicating with my new friends. It is amazing what is possible when thrust into a situation where you are forced to speak another language. During the grape harvest, we all walked down the rows of vines with hand pruners, individually cut each bunch of grapes from the vines and placed them in crates every ten to twenty feet. A tractor would drive through, with someone following behind, to pick up all the crates in the row. This tractor was the only mechanized part of the entire process, with everything else being done by hand. We took an espresso/lunch break around noon and just talked at a big picnic table at the edge of the vineyard. After picking for a few more hours, I went back to their cantina and helped put the grapes on a shaking table which lets any small debris fall through, while the larger material like leaves, sticks, and other undesirable material is picked out by hand. The grapes then fall into the crusher and then transferred directly into a steel vat where they will ferment for the next few weeks. The Sangiovese grapes which we picked are the staple grapes of central Italy. They will be used to make 4 different kinds of wine; 3 red and one rosé. Needless to say after this experience I was counting down the days until I could return again. 

Olive Harvest

Just a few weeks after the grape harvest I was able to return to La Segreta to help with their olive harvest. All of their roughly 500 olive trees are nestled right on the property with a spectacular view of the surrounding Umbrian hills. Their olive oil production is significantly smaller than the wine production as it takes roughly 5 kilograms, or around 11 pounds, of olives just to produce 1 liter of extra-virgin olive oil. That didn’t make the work any less grueling or exhausting though as again, everything is done by hand. 

We started at a similar time in the morning, around 7:30 AM, however it was noticeably colder this time as there was a heavy fog that morning. I was excited to see all the familiar faces of “la Squadra” that I had met a few weeks prior. This time there was no need for introduction and I rushed to practice some more Italian with the locals and I might add they were just as eager to practice their English! 

The process for collecting the olives involves laying down large mesh tarps under an area of trees to collect the olives as they fall. A few workers were equipped with a long pole with motorized “fingers”, for lack of a better word, situated at the end which shook the branches of the tree causing the olives to fall down. The majority of us, however, used long rakes which comb over the branches, pulling off only the olives. My day consisted of traveling from area to area laying down the tarps, raking the trees clean of olives and loading them into crates to be picked up. We picked 3 classic types of Italian olives: Leccino, Moraiolo, and Frantoio; the blending of which creates the best extra-virgin olive oil I have tasted and certainly unlike anything I have ever tried. The color of which is a hazy-green and tastes as though it is filled with spices. By the time we finished working, I realized that I had learned a lot of the terminology that was used during the day, the Italian words for tarp, stake, box and rake to name a few. My evening concluded with two kinds of homemade cake that Eileen made and brought into the olive grove for all the workers. There we engaged in chit chat and watched the beautiful sunset below the Umbrian hills. I exchanged contact information with some of the workers with whom I plan to see again.

A new way of life

The experience at “La Segreta” has been really eye opening. Not just because of the specifics related to grape/olive harvests or even the Italian words, phrases and conversation that I have picked up on. But more profoundly, I have learned about and experienced a completely different way of life and culture. I’ve been exposed to a business operation where product quality – rather than profits or volume – is put at the forefront. I have taken part in a way of life where past traditions are blended with the present. And perhaps most importantly, I’ve experienced a way of life where community and family rise above all else. It truly felt like one large family out in the fields, with everyone joking and laughing, telling inside jokes after years of harvesting grapes and olives together. It was a wonderful experience, one which I will never forget. 

If I could give any advice to anyone studying abroad, it would be to immerse yourself in the culture. You will learn new things. Of course, you will have the opportunity to learn the language  but you will also meet new people, and discover a different way of life. Umbria was a perfect place for me to go, filled with wonderful people, great food, a storied history and more importantly not completely overrun with tourists. Studying abroad was the best decision I have ever made and I implore anyone who gets the opportunity to seize it.