News and Blog – Page 6 – DEV – The Umbra Institute – Study Abroad in Italy

Starting in September 2021, the Umbra Institute assumed management of the urban garden known as “Orto Sole” (pronounced “orto-soul-ay”) to develop it as a living laboratory for the Institute’s Food, Sustainability and Environment program.

Until recently, Orto Sole was a mostly forgotten steep agricultural plot on Perugia’s north facing hillside. Several years ago, a non-profit association was created to re-develop this area as an urban garden: its members rebuilt the garden’s terraces, pruned the grape vines and ageing fruit trees, and started hosting community groups in the beautiful green space just below the city’s most famous panorama – Porta Sole.

The Institute will use the green urban hillside as its “outdoor classroom”: continuing the garden’s use as a didactic space, exploring new agricultural technologies, and sponsoring community-engaged learning projects with local partners. In development now are collaborations with nearby elementary and middle schools, a local non-profit organization that distributes food to those in need, and the Department of Agricultural, Food and Environmental Sciences of the prestigious University of Perugia.

Opportunities for Teaching & Learning

The location and position of Orto Sole provides both advantages and challenges. The advantages are its central location: the garden is located in the historic center, just short walk from Perugia’s main piazza (where the Umbra Institute is located). The challenges are its orientation and topography. It is a relatively steep hillside which will require significant terracing to cultivate, and it faces north and is therefore often in the shade. However, it is precisely these challenges that make Orto Sole an ideal project for landscape and agriculture students from the University of Perugia, and Umbra students in the FSE program to work together on the sustainable development of this unique urban garden.

To learn more about Umbra’s projects about Orto Sole, click here

By Lexi DeMarinis, University of Richmond

When you first arrive in Perugia, Italy for your semester abroad you will most likely spend the first week trying every pizzeria, pasta dish, and torta al testo in town. Then, you will realize it would be nice (and cheaper) to cook some fresh food in your apartment that reminds you of home. At this point you will head to the grocery store, most likely the Coop. Here you will find yourself completely overwhelmed by the amount of items packed into the small store, the number of people you bump into, and how different it is from going to the grocery store in the United States. I am here to tell you that grocery shopping in Italy does not need to be difficult, and there are more options for buying food than the Coop.

General Tips

Put a glove on (found with the bags for produce) before touching any produce
After you choose produce put your bag on the scale and select the item on the screen
Place the printed sticker on the produce bag BEFORE you check out

The Coop

The Coop is a great one stop shop grocery store. They have fresh produce, yogurt, milk, fish, and meat, but they also have snacks, crackers, cereal, frozen items and PEANUT BUTTER. While the frozen section is not huge there are some good finds such as frozen soup, fruit, pizzas, seafood, vegetables, and more. My personal favorite is the frozen pumpkin soup, you just heat it up in a pot for a few minutes and enjoy!

Fresh Vegetables @Via dei Priori, 20

The Coop is great, but if you are looking for guaranteed fresh produce directly from the farm this is the place to go. The owner is very kind, and he speaks great English. You point to what you want, he picks it out and bags it for you. He also gives you the best one of whatever you ask for. For example, if you want a bell pepper, he won’t give one that is about to go bad, but instead rummage through the bin to find you the best one. He has a few extra items in the shop as well such as crackers, canned beans, olive oil, and jams. Sometimes he has fresh cut up veggies that you can buy bags of to make minestrone soup. If you don’t see what you want, just ask and it’s probably in the back.

Fresh Pasta @Via Cesare Caporali, 3

This very small shop does not even have a name and there is only room to stand and order at the counter from one man who owns, runs, and makes the pasta. I highly recommend going here for a fresh, local experience that you will not get in the United States. The man speaks English, but he will help you through your Italian and urge you to practice. He makes fresh gnocchi, ravioli, and other types of pasta daily. It is also a great place to go if you only want one portion of pasta because you buy it by weight.

Butcher: Pierini, Via Dei Priori, 15

Again, you can find meat at the Coop, but when in Italy going to the butcher and getting your meat from the shop that specializes specifically in meat is a must have experience. The one on Via a Priori is conveniently located right across from the fresh produce shop. I highly recommend the sausages, they are full of flavor and really cheap, less than 1 euro per sausage. I recently used them to make sausage and peppers!

Pam: Dairy Free, Gluten Free, and Vegetarian Options (Open Sunday)

Pam is a great place for dairy free, gluten free, vegetarian, pre-packaged and frozen meals, and some American snacks. They have a small fresh section (much smaller than the Coop) but I mainly recommend Pam for the alternative products I mentioned above. They have dairy free yogurt and almond milk. They are also open all day on Sunday so when you come back from your weekend travel and realize you have nothing to eat it is a great place to grab a few Sunday essentials.

Alimentari’s

These are stores typically run by one to two people and they often sell products from other cuisines. Here you can find Asian spices, noodles, and sauces as well as American snacks and Halal products. They also often have frozen fish and a small selection of fresh produce. These are also typically open on Sunday for some amount of time.

Check Lexi’s Instagram highlights about groceries in Perugia on Umbra Instagram page!

by Umbra Rep Lauren Pawlowski, University of Connecticut

Part of adjusting to life in a new country while studying abroad is figuring out ways to make this place feel like home. Exploring the city and surrounding areas is exciting, but it’s good to balance taking trips and doing casual things around Perugia. I have lived in Connecticut for my whole life, so it is a little overwhelming trying to fit in with the Italian culture. Although this feeling may be common amongst the American students here, there are many ways to manage stress and feel more at ease with life abroad. Taking advantage of your free time is one the best ways to do so! So although watching Netflix may be tempting, here are 10 different ways to enjoy your spare time:

1. Looking for inspiration or something new to look at? Visit the art gallery or historical exhibits in the city fortress, la Rocca Paolina. Or you can take a stroll down Via Cartolari and Via della Viola to see outdoor murals and public art.

2. Feels like you’re eating too many carbs? Here are the local workout options: get a gym membership, visit Metropolitan Boulder (a rock climbing center where Umbra students get a discount), or run around the city or at the local track. If you’re looking for fewer hills, visit the parks around the city. One of them is Percorso Verde in Pian di Massiano (get there by Minimetro), where you can walk, run, play ping-pong, or just relax.

3. Start a new hobby: journaling, drawing, painting, playing the ukulele, reading books, writing poetry, etc. There are art supplies available at the Flying Tiger Copenhagen store and Novart Deco, both located in the city center. You can also buy books around town (look for “Libreria”). Journaling or making art about your experience can help you remember all the aspects of your study abroad adventure. Also, if you brought a nice camera then Perugia has many beautiful views to photograph!

4. Cook a new recipe or try new foods. You can search recipes online, ask a staff member, or talk with a local about new dishes to try. Enjoy a meal with your roommates or invite a friend over.

5. Watch a movie at the cinemas around the city. There are English movie nights on Wednesdays at PostModernissimo or other theaters. Ask the Umbra staff for advice on where to go.

6. Experience the best of Perugia: walk around, explore, or sit on the steps and chat with the locals.

7. Go to the mall (Centro Commerciale Collestrada) via a 35-minute bus ride. There you can find H&M, Zara, IKEA, and other popular stores. Or you can peruse the shops around the city center for some quick finds. There are a few thrift stores in Perugia, but you’ll have to take a bus or use the Minimetro to get to them.

8. Enjoy a coffee, sandwich, or aperetivo with a friend or with someone new. It helps to have a chat over food or a casual drink.

9. Visit the outdoor markets around the city for fresh farm produce, fish, truffles, clothing, and handmade goods.

10. Call a friend or family member back home to tell them about your experiences, get advice, or hear about life back in the States.

Check the Activities and Map sections of the Umbra App for more ideas and trips happening in the area!

Last weekend, students in Umbra’s program for Food, Sustainability, & Environment (FSE) went to Parma and Modena for what is one of the most significant field trips of their study abroad experience.

Accompanied by the three co-instructors of the FSE core course—Umbra’s director, Prof. Zachary Nowak, Professor Clelia Viecelli, and FSE assistant Manuel Barbato—students visited a region considered the cradle of Italian gastronomic culture, Emilia Romagna. This area is home of three worldwide known culinary gems: Parmesan cheese, Parma ham, and Modena balsamic vinegar.

The first stop was the Salumificio ‘La Perla’, located in the beautiful hills above Parma. Students met Carlo Lanfranchi, who was their guide through the small, family-run factory where over ten thousand fresh Italian hams are turned into delicious prosciutto each year. Students saw the various stages of salting and Carlo explained the special final quality test, which requires a small horse-bone probe to check for defects. The group then went upstairs for a hearty lunch of tortellini and (of course) prosciutto.

After the evening and night in Parma, students left Saturday morning for the Consorzio Produttori Latte Parma, where twelve local dairy farmers have created a small cooperative to process the milk from their cows into the famous cheese. Students were able to see the process of cheese-making from the beginning (as the workers pulled the curds out of the huge copper kettles with thick cheesecloths) to the salting, and even went in the huge warehouse where finished wheels of cheese weighing over 150 pounds each were stacked on shelves that went to the ceiling.

The last stop on the trip was in Modena, a small city known for being home of luxury cars (Ferrari and Lamborghini factories) and…balsamic vinegar. Students visited Acetaia San Donnino, a family-run business where students were able to see the six different sets of wooden barrels (each made of a different wood) that balsamic vinegar must pass through on its twelve year-long journey to becoming Modena’s most famous culinary product. A real hit: tasting the thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar on vanilla ice cream!

In addition to visiting some of the Italian food excellencies, and tasting authentic products, students had the opportunity to have hands-on experience on many aspects related to food production and consumption. They learned the importance of the geographical indications that aim to protect the names of specific products and their unique characteristics, linked to their geographical origin as well as traditional know-how. They learned how crucial is the use of high-quality raw material (and the daily quality controls) in such traditional products. They learned the indissoluble link between parmigiano, prosciutto and vinegar and the people and history of Parma and Modena. But, at the same time, students realized how important is the interplay between innovation and tradition.

During the upcoming weeks, students will have the opportunity to visit and learn more about the interconnection between food, sustainability, and environment thanks to workshops and on-site visits in that landscape of culinary wonders, called Umbria.

16 September 2021 – Washington, DC

During a visit to the Italian Embassy in Washington, DC on Thursday, Dr. Anthony Fauci stated that, “Italy has become an example to the world”. Fauci went on to compliment and promote Italy for its management of the pandemic stating, “Italy is doing well, better than the USA, particularly with the percentage of fully vaccinated people over 12 years, almost 75%, against 54% in the United States (63% with at least one dose). Italian ambassador Mariangela Zappia, thanked Fauci for his comments and his appreciation for Italy’s effective policies in response to the pandemic.

Statistically, Italy is among the top 10 nations in terms of managing COVID-19 and has set a goal of 80% of its population be vaccinated with the first dose by the end of September, and to eventually, like Portugal has done so in recent days, achieve an over 80% fully-vaccinated level and declare victory over the pandemic in the coming months.

Source: Covid, Fauci promuove l’Italia: “Meglio degli Usa, è diventata esempio nel mondo” – Rai News

The whole Umbra Institute community is awaiting the arrival of the students in the Fall 2021 cohort, who will come to a city bathed in the later summer sun. Perugia has always been welcoming to American and all other foreign students, but this semester’s students are the first since the pandemic closed down the city in March 2020.

Perugia is the capital of Umbria, which boasts one of Italy’s highest vaccination rates: just over 85% of Umbrians have had at least one dose and 75% are fully vaccinated. As of today, Italy itself is among the safest destinations in Europe, thanks to the measures adopted in the country to combat the spread of the virus.

The main initiative allowing a safe return to normal life is probably the so-called Green Pass (the EU digital Covid vaccination certificate). In Italy, the Green Pass system came into effect on August 6: the certificate must be shown to access all sorts of services, such as public ground transport, domestic and international flights, restaurants and cafés, cultural events, museums, theaters, cinemas, gyms, and pools. Anyone who has been vaccinated against Covid-19 can get this certificate.

If you are wondering whether vaccinated American citizens are able to access all the above mentioned services, the answer is YES! The Italian government has authorized the US white card bearing a CDC logo as proof of vaccination equivalent to the Green Pass. In addition, to keep the infection and the ICU occupancy rates at their current low levels, the Italian government declared that booster shots (a third dose of vaccine) will be available beginning at the end of September.

The Umbra Institute has been very careful to define policies that put the safety of students, staff, and professors in the foreground. As required by Italian law, Umbra’s strict anti-COVID protocol has been approved by the authorities.

Everything is in place for a smooth fall semester: a bright Perugia can’t wait to show its best to the new study abroad students!

The Umbra Institute is welcoming back longtime staff member Zachary Nowak back to Perugia—now as the new director. Nowak started working at Umbra in 2005 as a study services assistant. After learning the ropes helping professors attach their laptops to projectors (these were the pre-wifi days) and chaperoning field trips to Florence, Nowak became the Special Projects Coordinator, working to create co-curricular workshops and field trips that were integrated into the Institute’s academic offering.

This was useful training in community-engaged learning and curriculum development that later led to one of the Institute’s signature academic offerings. After completing a Master’s at Middlebury College, Nowak worked with his colleague Elgin Eckert to found the Food & Sustainability Studies Program in 2011. Nowak left Perugia in 2013 to start a PhD at Harvard University, though has for the last eight years continued to work for the Institute in academic development and US university relations. He earned his PhD in 2018, having added environmental history to his previous profile as a food historian. In the last three years, Nowak has taught for Harvard College while also working with his Perugia-based colleagues to revise Umbra’s food-related curriculum. He joins an academic team that will in the following months continue to build what is now called the Center for Food, Sustainability, & Environment as well as expand other curricular offerings. Nowak is a lecturer for the Harvard Extension School and continues to be active in the fields of food and environmental history.

“It’s fabulous to be back in Perugia, especially with a staff team that has worked so hard to make that even in this very particular semester, the students will have an experience that is both rewarding and safe—and, without a doubt, transformative,” said Nowak.

Are you planning to study abroad in Perugia, Italy this fall? We at the Umbra Institute have constructed a list of 5 things you shouldn’t forget to pack for your fall abroad in Perugia.
This list is not everything you need (please read your pre-departure handbook carefully), but rather a selection of some of the most common items that our students forget each fall:

A winter coat
Italians often spend the start of September soaking up the sun on the beach and tourism easily paints Italy as the ideal location for sun-bathing warmth. However, November and December in Perugia can get chillingly cold. It won’t snow, but snow can be seen on the distant mountain tops as the wind carries a cold breeze into the city. Winter coats can be quite expensive in Italy so we advise that students bring one from home.
Ciabatte or pantofole
That’s right, Italians wear shoes in their homes. This is primarily because most Italian apartments do not have carpeted floors. In warmer months, ciabatte (which are like flip-flops or… crocks!) are worn to keep your feet clean and comfortable. In colder months, pantofole (winter slippers) are worn to keep feet warm as they step along cold wood or tile floors.
Warm clothes to wear at home
Italian homes and public buildings are often cooler than what the average American is used to in the winter. This is because energy is much more expensive in Europe than it is in the U.S., so Italians don’t keep their heat blasting all day, every day. Instead, in part due to Italian law, Italians turn the heat on for a limited number of hours each day, and walk around wearing sweaters and warm pants. Italian law even dictates the range of dates during the year when heat can be used (a period that typically doesn’t start before early- or mid-November.)
Comfortable walking shoes
There are three characteristics of walking in Perugia: uneven cobblestones, stairs, and hills. Perugia is a beautiful hill-top city with postcard-like panoramic views around nearly every corner. However, while abroad, students find that walking is their most comfortable and commonly used way of getting around town. Comfortable walking shoes are not flip-flops, and sometimes not even sandals. Students often find that the most comfortable shoes are shoes designed for running or walking. Note for those of you who may enjoy high-heels: Be careful wearing heels in Italy! It is easy for a stiletto to get caught in a cobblestone crack, and though Umbra staff is available to help you seek medical assistance, no one wants to see you fall or twist your ankle on your way to enjoy a nice evening walk. Our students usually avoid heals during the semester, especially after their first night out; and many ask us to warn others about how uncomfortable such shoes can be.
Anti-Covid items
All students will find an anti-Covid starter pack in their new home in Perugia! However, in order to be fully protected while traveling from the US, it is necessary to bring at least three (3) masks and gloves (keep in mind that your airline might ask you to change your mask every 4 hours, even in flight). You can pack extra masks and bring them with you if you want, as you’ll find that they’re likely to cost more in Italy than in the US. Keep in mind that Italy doesn’t acknowledge use of cloth masks.We also recommend pocket-sized hand sanitizer that contains at least 60% alcohol for use when soap and water are not readily available and
anti-bacterial wipes or solution to wipe down high-touch surfaces.
A thermometer is also an essential medical device that should be in your personal anti-Covid care kit.

So, are you ready for an exciting semester abroad?

An Interview with Ariel Stern Umbra Institute Fall 2013 Alum
from Brandeis University

This article is part of Umbra’s Alumni Success Series. Study abroad inspires students from all backgrounds and with all sorts of career goals. Therefore, each article in this series is meant to provide advice for current and former students interested in pursuing the types of careers our alumni hold, with some offering opportunities to connect by email or LinkedIn for further advice. Below is a brief Q&A with Ariel Stern. We encourage you to follow us on LinkedIn so you can read future features!

Alum Ariel Stern Discusses her Career

Umbra: What is your current role and what is something that you enjoy about your job?
Ariel: I am the Global Corporate Responsibility Supervisor at EY (Ernst & Young)*, located in New York. I really enjoy Empowering EY’s 270,000+ employees to participate in corporate responsibility programs, as well as creating and implementing programs for social change. Some of these programs include preparing the next generation for the Future of Work (ages 5-24) by enabling and building the confidence of underserved students and underrepresented groups to encourage them to enter (or re-enter) the job force. The best part of this job is how people from my team are based all around the world! Earlier this year I was able to travel to Australia and meet two of my colleagues.

Umbra: Are there any lessons that you have learned through your job, that you feel like the recent graduates should know?
A: If you don’t love what you do, then don’t go for it. Don’t let society dictate what your career journey is. Don’t be a “doctor” or a “lawyer” because it sounds “good”. Follow your passion.

U: What would you recommend students do while abroad if they are interested in your field?
A: I would absolutely recommend getting engaged in local volunteer opportunities within the community. When I lived in Perugia, I had an internship at the Fair-Trade store. It was very cool to learn about how important Fair Trade is for Italians. By getting engaged in community projects, you can learn how citizens of certain countries, like Italians, are able to impact society in a positive way.

When I worked with a Fair-Trade organization in Perugia and I was able to work at a booth during the fair trade chocolate festival. It was so awesome to see all the different fair-trade organizations across Italy, as well as the Cocoa farmers from Africa, where the beans are sourced from. It was a great opportunity to see the economic model as a whole.

U: Can you explain to our readers why the “triple bottom line” will be important for their future careers??
A: In essence, [the triple bottom line] ensures that businesses are profitable for their stakeholders, while at the same time, being sustainable and giving back to society. It is extremely important in any career or job as each of our companies and the people working for them, affect climate change. I also find that you tend to feel better about doing your job when you know you are having a positive impact on the world!

U: When you think about your time in Italy, is there anything you wish you would have done differently?
A: Absolutely not— I had the most amazing three months. The most important thing I did was I stayed in Italy and traveled the country instead of going to a new country every week. Italy is amazing and there are so many cities and excursions to experience. Enjoy the food, water, culture, and all the past history.

U: Is there any more advice you would like to share with our students and alumni?
A: Learn Italian. Spend time with Italians. Learn how to cook Italian food. Learn as much as you can from the people who are the Culture.

If you have interest in EY as an organization and are looking for more information, feel free to check out these links that Ariel provided us with:

*Note that since our interview with Ariel, she has been promoted to Global Corporate Responsibility Marketing Manager at EY. Congratulations Ariel!

Author Bio
Olivia is a recent graduate of the University of Denver and chose ISI Abroad for her internship in order to gain experience in her fields of study; Communication Studies, Writing Practices, and Marketing. Olivia studied in Perugia in Fall 2019 and looks forward to sharing her love for the city with other students.

By Claudia Conrad, Umbra Spring 2020 Alum

Dear Perugia,

I must confess something… I love you.
I may not be from you, but you have made me feel more than welcomed, and there’s no other place that makes me feel the way you do. You make me open my windows in the morning and stick my head out to take in the fresh Perugian air. I love your warm cappuccinos in the morning that make me think about all that I’m grateful for in life. It is the simplicity of eating a warm fluffy croissant on the steps of the piazza that makes me smile. Oh, those wonderful steps. They are comforting and always there for me. They speak to me, fulfill me and introduce me to my soon to be friends. On days filled with bright blue skies and a strong sun, I sit there and bask, soaking up the warmth. I observe the pigeons that gather and then flock. I observe the locals, strolling, arm in arm, on their afternoon walk. I overhear their conversations, the Iitalian language is a constant song I love to listen to.

I will never forget the first time we met. I was excited to meet you, I wanted to know everything about you, but I knew this relationship would be a long and beautiful one, so there was no reason to rush it. You’ve introduced me to friends and loved ones and that is one of the many great gifts you have shared with me. Although we’ve only met a year ago, I feel as if I’ve known you forever. The days with you were so filled with present moments that they went by slowly, however, they gave me the opportunity to appreciate them even more. You inspire me so much. You have led me to flourish. You make me love to dance, and to express myself for who I am. You give me no worries in the world, all excess anxieties are left behind. You are truly a fantasy.

Now, we are apart. We are in a long-distance relationship. I daydream about you a lot. Thinking of the short time we spent together, and what it could’ve been. On days that I feel down, I sit outside, close my eyes, and I pretend that I’m with you. I listen to the playlist I made for you and I sing out loud. I know there is a mutual understanding that we will be united again some day. I can’t help but wonder; how are you feeling? Do you miss the rush of locals walking through the streets in the evening? I know I do.

Please don’t forget about me. I know we will be back together soon. Until then, let your sun shine, let your bells ring, and protect yourself. You are so sacred to me and to so many others.

This is my love letter to you, Perugia.